Those waves pin you to the bottom, which is often Coral reef and does its best to kill you. Thet’s why guys like Laird Hamilton run on the seafloor holding large rocks to increase strength and lung capacity , all while feeling the currant above !!!
At 12 I was on an upper floor of a hotel built on piers over the water at Galveston. Once I saw how many Portuguese Man-o-Wars were in the surf – about every 10-15 feet in every direction like a floor pattern, I lost all desire to learn. The pain from a tentacle wrapping one of my forearms was not something I wanted to experience again, much less all over my body.
We live just a short distance from Maverick’s. My husband used to surf there and is missing a chunk of his calf muscle where the skeg gouged it out after a wipe-out. The chunk was hanging by a thread so he pulled it off and chucked it and continued surfing. Lol!
Portuguese Man-o-Wars! *shudders* The nearest beach to where I lived in CA in the early 80s was full of them. I went one early summer and didn’t notice anything. didn’t find out they existed there until a few days later when I saw on the news some dude had been killed by a few. So then we started going to Santa Monica once in a while. But that had to stop because my sister got violently ill from the water. Plus the area smelled of urine until the people’s republic of santa monica got tired of people bitching about everything and cleaned it up.